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cat_ceteraHave decided to make a suit consisting of trunk hose and doublet because I want to use this really loud fabric I have. First step is making a practice suit out of fabric I don't care about as much, because the first try never really works out the way you want it to - ergo, suit will be plain black. 100% wool was not available on short notice, so bought a wool/viscose blend that is taking forever to dry in my dryer and generating a really astonishing amount of lint. (Black linen was also not available on short notice, so am using 100% unnatural fibre "linen look"). Finished suit in black will end up looking a lot like this suit, so fashionably worn by Cormac at Montengarde Twelfth Night 2008.
First - dug out my generic pattern pieces. Doublet pattern piece will be fine, as am electing to go without the peasecod belly. Am done however with cutting the back of the collar in one with the back of the doublet - Juan de Alcega recommends this pattern shape for men but not for women, and I used to cut it the men's way for men's clothes, but it just doesn't fit me right. This style is ca. 1615-1620, which is approximately 35 years after the nominal date of my persona, but hey, everyone should do a bit of time travelling now and then. The same basic style is seen earlier, but most of the trunk hose are way too short for my taste. Basic sleeve pattern needs to be recut so seams are at front and back and there is a curve at the elbow. Many of my previous attempts at set-in sleeves have led to a very restricted range of movement, but that is one reason I am doing this as a practice suit before I make it out of the good stuff.
On examination of the various trunk hose patterns in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion...etc.", one set has leg pieces shaped like a modern pants pattern much expanded, while the other two have this mysterious thing going on under the crotch seam with some right angle seams (rather hard to describe). In order to solve the mystery, traced the pattern and cut it out of practice fabric at the scale in the book, then sewed it together - sewing pieces that small is kind of fiddly but mystery was solved (it cuts down the bulk of fabric between the legs), but inseam is definitely going to need to be longer than the one in the Willoughby suit, which I used for a pattern.
Next step - creating garment-specific sleeve and pantleg patterns, then cutting out at full size (if my fabric ever dries).
First - dug out my generic pattern pieces. Doublet pattern piece will be fine, as am electing to go without the peasecod belly. Am done however with cutting the back of the collar in one with the back of the doublet - Juan de Alcega recommends this pattern shape for men but not for women, and I used to cut it the men's way for men's clothes, but it just doesn't fit me right. This style is ca. 1615-1620, which is approximately 35 years after the nominal date of my persona, but hey, everyone should do a bit of time travelling now and then. The same basic style is seen earlier, but most of the trunk hose are way too short for my taste. Basic sleeve pattern needs to be recut so seams are at front and back and there is a curve at the elbow. Many of my previous attempts at set-in sleeves have led to a very restricted range of movement, but that is one reason I am doing this as a practice suit before I make it out of the good stuff.
On examination of the various trunk hose patterns in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion...etc.", one set has leg pieces shaped like a modern pants pattern much expanded, while the other two have this mysterious thing going on under the crotch seam with some right angle seams (rather hard to describe). In order to solve the mystery, traced the pattern and cut it out of practice fabric at the scale in the book, then sewed it together - sewing pieces that small is kind of fiddly but mystery was solved (it cuts down the bulk of fabric between the legs), but inseam is definitely going to need to be longer than the one in the Willoughby suit, which I used for a pattern.
Next step - creating garment-specific sleeve and pantleg patterns, then cutting out at full size (if my fabric ever dries).
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Date: 2008-02-03 07:38 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-03 04:35 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-03 05:09 pm (UTC)The new kit that I made for William B is the Richard Cotton suit out of POF and Eira from Myrgan Wood made the same suit. I'll look forward to see what your rendition turns out like - unfortunately I'll not be at investiture, so I will hope that there are some good photos taken.
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Date: 2008-02-03 10:32 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-04 05:12 am (UTC)I am sure yours will turn out equally well. As I said, I'll look forward to seeing the photos.