cat_cetera: (SCA!)
Apron

Previously completed: Finished edges of apron; did simple embroidery pattern around edges. Sewed three strips together to make waistband; pleated apron into waistband and finished both sides. Noticed that waistband had gone onto apron inside out, so that not-so-nice edges of flat-felled seams were out and nice edges were in.

Yesterday: Chose to leave waistband on the way it was. Finished edges of waistband using a combination of whip stitch and, when that didn't seem to be going fast enough, running stitch. Completed.

Apron

Houppelande

Previously completed: I have previously finished and worn this, but I wasn't satisfied with the way the sleeves sat. After I wore it at Coronet, I took the sleeves off and contemplated how to put them back on so they would sit flat. After trying a few different things, I decided to pleat them flat into the armholes and finish the edges inside with a strip of bias tape. I got one finished, and then it sat for a really long time.

Yesterday: Attended A&S day at Villa Tamborri, got the other sleeve put back on while watching satisfying and quoteable modern classic movies Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl and Galaxy Quest, plus a few amusingly dated episodes of the original British Whose Line is it Anyway? (most quoteable line of the evening: Steven Fry in a game of "Props" with some bubble wrap "Look, either the BBC believes in Doctor Who or it doesn't, but how am I supposed to make seventeen monsters out of this?")

Houppelande

Today: Reattached cuffs to bottom of sleeves using flat pleats. It's now ready to wear at Crown, but at some point I need to go through and finish all of the inside seams.

Hose

Previously completed: Previous entry here. Finally had the chance to do the fitting with Papa Don. [livejournal.com profile] falashad may have the pictures on her flickr stream. Got [livejournal.com profile] falashad to trace Papa Don's feet - the only piece of the pattern that was previously missing. Discussed some of my fitting questions with Mistress Issabbella and got some helpful advice - most notably that the ankles need to be a bit baggy, and that they are going to pull down when you bend no matter what, so the best thing to do is not point them to your doublet at the back.

Today: cut apart the old mockup pattern where marked to create new pattern; sewed all pieces together into new mockup, including feet pieces.

15th Century Hose
cat_cetera: (SCA!)
I am not sure how it happens, but no matter how reasonable and achievable I think I am making my goals, it always seems that I have to scale back. Recently I have had a couple of conversations with an engineer friend of mine about how projects can be done fast, right or cheap, and if you choose two you might get one. My preference right now for arts and sciences is to do my projects right, especially for the one I want to take to KA&S next year. So here are my re-revised and reprioritized A&S plans and goals:

Finished

Pattens
Finished, with lots of help from [livejournal.com profile] landsknecht_po, and worn at Winter War.

Short Term

Hose Pattern and Mock-Up
Finally had the chance to do a fitting with Papa Don on the weekend, and afterwards had a discussion with Mistress Issabbella about some of the questions I had on how to make it fit better. Need to make a new mockup this weekend and hopefully complete the next fitting at Crown the weekend after.

Apron
I started making an apron, even though it wasn't on my project list, and then I started embroidering it. Consequently it turned from a one-afternoon project into a several-weekend project. I still have to finish sewing the waist straps together, but the embroidery is at least done.

Should Do Sooner Rather Than Later

Documentation
Mistress Issabbella suggested that I should label my process pictures better on my Flickr page (as well as blogging them on LJ). I said I would, but I didn't get to it. Then while I was away a situation came up where it would have been very helpful if I had already labeled them. Oops. I still also want to put together a portfolio of my projects to take to events. Since I won't be camping much this year the portfolio can probably wait, and in the meantime I can take my documentation for my brown linen gamurra and my pattens.

For KA&S

Revised Entry
After thinking about the fabric I had left in the stash, and doing a bit more research about the kind of fabric I really should use for a Florentine overgown, and pining after the picture of a striped dress I found, I decided to focus on the striped dress for my KA&S entry instead of doing an overgown, because I already have suitable fabric for it. I need to do a bit more research on the image of the striped dress before I can get started patterning, and I think the stripes are going to present several interesting but not insurmountable pattern-blocking challenges. Assuming I get the dress done in time, I might then also put together chopines or a cofea tranzado for entry, but I'm not holding my breath and neither should you.

On The Back Burner

A Spiffy New Hat
I would still like to make the white linen cofea tranzado I posted in this spot before. I think it would be a good camping hat, but since I won't be doing very much camping this year, I've moved this one back.

Class
There is still a lot of History of Science to be summarized. Maybe I can get ahead on this one while I'm away this summer.

Chopines
Still want to make 'em.

Long Term

Astrology
Stage 1: figure out which treatises on astrology and which tables of astronomical observations would have been available to my persona (late 15th century Florence) - already in process
Stage 2: track down said treatises. In order of language preference, English, French, Italian, Latin.
Stage 3: determine what types of calculations are necessary and how they would have been done in period. Learn how to use abacus if necessary
Stage 4: make necessary calculations, draw chart, make suitably vague predictions according to instructions in treatises.

More Research
Two areas that I need to do more research in for my garb are what types of chemises they might have worn and what types of trim/embroidery their gowns might have had. I'll work on it as I go along. I will likely find that some of this comes in as I'm working on the KA&S entries.

Garb
Have several garb projects in mind:
1. Olive green brocade dress (it is fitted like a gamurra but worn as an outer dress, which I think makes it a giornea, or maybe a cioppa)
2. Colour-blocked dress
3. Black/copper brocade sleeveless overdress, open at the sides, and blue velvet overdress, closed at the sides.

Ronda GBU

May. 1st, 2011 09:48 pm
cat_cetera: (Don't Panic)
Exceeded Expectations
- the town as a whole - beautiful views out over the landscape below the town, and pretty unique geography with the town sitting literally right on top of the gorge

Afraid of Heights?

- just when I thought I had seen everything Ronda had to offer (it is pretty small) we discovered a craft fair with local artisans showing their wares or offering demonstrations of how they made their products (like the geometric patterned tiles), where I got a CD by a local baroque/flamenco trio and an incense burner made of local tiles.

Good
- nice if rainy walk around the old town to see the gorge and the bridges from various angles
- great meals with fantastic views over the gorge and the landscape below

Bad
- rainy
- left my new water bottle behind on the bus

Ugly
- was not able to escape the hype of the royal wedding

Interesting
- the church of Santa Maria Mayor was not just ABC - it had some modern frescoes (painted in 1983) and a modern bronze choir screen along with the usual gold-encrusted baroque altarpieces; there was also an unusually high concentration of the life-sized Marys, many shown with a crescent moon (a symbol of many pagan goddesses like Isis, Artemis etc.)

The Cult of Mary

- the duelling museum at the Plaza de Toros had an exhibit showing a duel between two ladies over the love of a certain captain
- at dinner on the last night, I had a chair with my back to the gorge. As I was eating, I felt a thing like someone putting their hand on my shoulder - there was no-one there, but I looked around just in time to see a huge flock of crows wheeling around below us in the gorge.

Amusing
- one of the exhibits at the local trade fair was a sort of promotion of Andalucian/North African cross-cultural connections. There were a whole bunch of musical instruments, including a sort of drum with a stick in it that you played by wetting your hand and then rubbing it rapidly up and down the stick (hur hur). After I played that, I saw there was also a doumbek which the lady encouraged me to play. I sat down with it, listened to the music a bit, and started to drum along (no, not the Standard Avacal Rhythm) and the next thing I knew, the lady from the exhibit was playing some other drum, a little girl was playing the castanets, and we had attracted a crowd of picture-taking tourists, who will no doubt go home and show all their friends their pictures of local musicians from Ronda.
cat_cetera: (Don't Panic)
Exceeded Expectations

- Plaza de Espana

Plaza de Espana

- live flamenco performance. All of the artists were phenomenal. With the women's dancing, you could really see the influence of the Indian classical dancing and the belly dancing, and with the men's dancing, unlike many other forms of dance they still managed to look masculine doing the dancing.

Good

- Plaza de Toros. Our guide gave a good overview of the history and art of bullfighting and told a few off-colour jokes. I was especially interested in the links she pointed out between the bullfighting and Roman and Greek era traditions like the cult of Mithras.

Plaza de Toros

- agritourism - tours of the sherry bodega and the olive ranch, complete with the history of how the products were made, how they're made today, and a lesson on how to properly taste test them. It's very interesting to see how these products were made. The olive ranch was so beautiful I was ready to sign on as a hired hand.

- the Alameda of Hercules, which was where we spent most of our free time. It had a great local feel with lots of kids and dogs running around and playing, and the weather was so great that you could sit out halfway into the night nursing your gelato.

Alameda de Hercules

- although the archaeological museum was small and a bit run of the mill, there were a couple of things I had never seen before, like the votive offerings of footprints to Isis and the bronze tablets of the Roman civil law, and things that I have seen reproduced in the SCA but never seen the originals of, like the Roman military diplomas (which I learned about from [livejournal.com profile] ya_inga's process pictures of her scroll for Arminius' knighting

- got to see the tomb of Manuel de Falla in Cadiz - a favourite composer of mine

Amusing

- our local guide had a good, slightly ribald sense of humour, but she had a couple of speech idiosyncracies, so at the bullring we learned that the matador has to "introduce" his sword to a particular spot on the bull's spine to kill it quickly, that sometimes the bull is triumphant if it manages to "introduce" one of its horns into the matador's chest instead, and that the matador has a special member of his team whose job it is to help "introduce" the matador into his tight pants.

- among the theories put forth by our guides about the origin of the word "flamenco", one was that there was a link with the Flemish nobles and artisans that came to the country after the Reconquista. Diverting as that theory is, I'm not convinced that flamenco is a Flemish style.

- at the sherry bodega, it was apparently a tradition to leave out a glass of sherry and some tapas for the mice, complete with little ladders for the mice to reach their treats

Amontillado for Mice

Bad

- the hotel was plagued with all sorts of minor inconveniences that are the epitome of what [livejournal.com profile] quixote317 has called "First World Problems" - there was no wi-fi in the rooms, you couldn't have the bathroom door and the closet door open at the same time, the water from the shower splashed out on the floor, and my room was on the third floor of the back 40 with no elevator. It was simply atrocious, dahling.

Ugly

- in Cadiz there was a cruise ship with a jumbotron so large it could be seen from street level, so that presumably you could lounge around in the pool and watch trashy talk shows instead of getting out and touring around an historic town in the beautiful sunlight.
cat_cetera: (Don't Panic)
Exceeded Expectations
- the Mezquita. It looks exactly the pictures make it look, but they don't do it justice.

Mezquita - Interior

- the gardens of the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos.

Gardens of Spain

Good
- touring through the old Jewish quarter and getting my picture taken with Averroes and Maimonides
- lots of great street views of twisted old pre-automobile-era roads (that cars drive on anyway) with semi-dilapidated buildings, yet way less crowded with tourists than comparable cities in Italy
- people watching on Easter Sunday - everybody out dressed in their Sunday best and strolling around the streets. They put the little tiny kidlets in the parish confraternities at an early age so they might have a chance to carry the floats later in life, but as small children they seem to get drums which their parents let them carry around afterwards. Most of them have pretty good rhythm.
- all of the food places the Three Ravens chose on our own were pretty tasty.

Bad
- most of the first day for the walking tour was rainy :(
- did not get to see the Semana Santa processions

Ugly
- N/A

Interesting
- the reconstructed pillars of a Roman temple stood near our hotel, and, predictably enough there were a bunch of feral cats living in the temple area. This group of cats included five really cute fuzzy little kittens, and we have a cat lover in our group who collected all of our scraps from dinner and took them out to feed the kitties.

Feral Kittens

- the Semana Santa processions (which we did not get to see) feature these immense and elaborate floats that beggar description. Mary is life sized and she weeps tears of jewels. She is covered in silver ornaments and heavily embroidered clothing and surrounded by gigantic candles. The Jesus floats are even more elaborate and feature life sized scenes from the stations of the cross. The ones we saw were displayed in a crowded little area where everyone was jamming in to see them, and somebody's nonna was singing a traditional Andalucian lament. We were told that some people go to see them out of authentic religious feeling, and others just to see the spectacle.

Weeping Mary

- the main agricultural industry in this part of Spain is olives, and the countryside was completely covered with patchwork olive groves from Granada to Cordoba.

- our local tour guide in Cordoba was from Liverpool, which I'm sure will appeal to [livejournal.com profile] philomenaobence
cat_cetera: (Don't Panic)
Exceeded Expectations
- the Alhambra and Generalife gardens

Alhambra views

- el Albaicin and Sacromonte

Sacromonte

- the food - lamb couscous under the shadow of the Alhambra; artisanal cheeses and interesting mixed salads; ham and egg soup; YUM
- have new hair goo that gives my hair the texture and body I have always wished it had, without my having to blow dry a thing.

Good
- minimal migrainey-ness and jet lag, except today, after having ordered a soup I did not know came in garlic broth :(
- free unlimited wi-fi in my hotel room
- at Alhambra bookshop, got a book on Islamic Calligraphy (in English) and a book with pictures on the Alhambra textile collection (sadly, only in Spanish)

Bad
- with the amount of walking and the type of terrain, mostly cobblestones, should have opted for substance (Merrell walking shoes with vibram soles) over style (Chucks) in footwear
- got car sick on bus through white hill towns of Alpujarras region; followed up by rain and cold weather and soup with garlic broth
- hotel room has zero noise (yes I know, this is only a bad thing for someone whose bedroom overlooks Centre Street) and it didn't occur to me until the last night here that I could listen to internet radio streaming over iTunes for some background noise.

Ugly
- travel schedule from Calgary consisted of the following: 1. Arrive YYC 1800 Calgary time after almost forgetting passport at my house. 2. Depart YYC for LHR at 2100 Calgary time; fly for 9 hours. 3. Arrive LHR after noon London time. 4. Depart LHR for LGW by overheated bus; drive almost 1 hour. 5. Arrive LGW; wait for 3 hours to board plane. 6. Depart LGW for AGP; fly for 3 hours. 7. Arrive AGP 2300 Malaga time. 8. Depart Malaga for Granada by bus; drive for 2.5 hours. 9. Arrive Granada 0200 Granada time.

Coolest Thing I Didn't See
- One of the most famous sights of the Alhambra is a round fountain ringed by 12 lions, each one a little different. Our tour guide said a number of things about it, including that it was given to the Sultan by the Jews and the lions represent the 12 tribes of Israel (?). What I read in a history of science book was that it was a water clock constructed by one of the Sultan's scientists (the Moors, like the Greeks, had very sophisticated hydraulic automata), later taken apart by conquering Christians who could not get it to work again. Right now it is in restoration, so although we got to see the lions, we didn't get to see them in situ.
cat_cetera: (SCA!)
So last fall when I was at Tir Righ Investiture I met Mistress Alicia le Wilfulle, who as well as being generally cool was going around in pattens. I used to wear vaguely period-looking modern shoes for camping in, with extra thick socks made by [livejournal.com profile] missymorgan1 if it got too cold or wet. Then I lucked into a new pair of modern shoes that, while not quite period, are an awful lot closer. They have a thin leather sole and fit very snug to my foot, so no chance to add extra insulation on the inside. Pattens are the answer! (Although as far as I know my persona would have made the much less practical fashion statement of chopines).

After doing some research (mostly in Olaf Goubitz Stepping Through Time and the Museum of London Shoes and Pattens) and taking a carpentry safari through south Calgary, I headed over to [livejournal.com profile] landsknecht_po's house to get some help with the construction.

Don't forget the duct tape! )

Then I wore them at Winter War:

Putting on her pattens

Frequently Asked Questions

What did you learn from this project?
All sorts of new woodworking skills - I don't have a shop but if I was going to do another project I would have a better idea of how to get started and what processes to use to make my project. Also during the course of my research, learned more about different types of shoe, decorative processes used on shoes etc. Most importantly I learned that if you get a laurel to help you there probably won't be quite as many power tools involved as you think ;)

What would you do differently if you did this project again?
When cutting out the chunks to shape the soles, I wouldn't cut quite so far towards the outline of the sole, because this was what led to the grooves still being visible after I had evened the sides out. I also received a suggestion that I could have used a coping saw (I think) to cut out the soles rather than cutting them out in chunks.

My research suggested that the soles could have been cut out while the wood was still green, and then further shaped after it had dried. I don't know if this would prevent the problem I had with splitting when I put the nails in, but it would be something to try.

I would also leave more time and get a finer punch so that I could do a fancier pattern on the straps.

What are your next steps?
Next on the footwear front is chopines, for which more research and different processes are required. If I did pattens again, I might try to do the one-piece kind with the stilts because I think they look cooler and also because they come from an area that is closer to the area that my persona is from (the hinged pattens are English). I might also like to try making shoes at some point - there is lots of good information in Stepping Through Time.

Hipster A&S

Apr. 1st, 2011 08:47 pm
cat_cetera: (SCA!)
On Thursday got asked if I had any pieces of largesse I could take with me to KA&S. I did not, but I did some brainstorming with [livejournal.com profile] falashad about what I could make on short notice. After looking through the stash and my usual selection of references, decided I could probably throw together some coifs.

The women's coifs will be Elizabethan, based on the various extant pieces described in Janet Arnold 4. The men's coifs will be based on two boldly patterned silk taffeta coifs belonging to King Enrique of Castile (c. 1203-17) and his brother Infante Fernando (1189-1211), as described in Dahl, Camilla Luise and Sturtewagen, Isis (2008). "The Cap of St. Birgitta", in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 4: 99-142.

I started from the patterns in The Tudor Tailor and The Medieval Tailor's Assistant (men's) and Janet Arnold 4 (women's) and scaled them up onto my trusty yellow plaid practice fabric.

It's an obscure project; you probably haven't heard of it. )
I liked this project better before it got so mainstream. )
cat_cetera: (Default)
I have here a tunic fitting a Norseman of my acquaintance, to use as a pattern for a tunic that I am going to make in trade for some armor. This tunic has modern-cut set-in sleeves and the body piece flares out in a kind of A-line from shoulder to hem. I haven't done a lot of research on Norse or other early period costuming, but from what I've absorbed I'm pretty sure this isn't right.

To make my (hopefully better) tunic, I took a bunch of measurements of the existing tunic: shoulder to shoulder, shoulder to hem, width of tunic at hem, length of sleeves, width of sleeves. My plan is to have a tunic consisting of a long central body piece with no shoulder seams, a gore consisting of back to back triangles on each side, an underarm gusset, and a sleeve piece. Each of these pieces is shaped like a rectangle or square (the gores are rectangles cut diagonally). I'll worry about the neckline later.

My fabric came from the stash - it is a black wool blend that has been through the washer and dryer. As a non-fiber arts person I have a very imperfect understanding of whether this means it has been fulled, or felted, or whether a treatment like this is appropriate for a Norse garment. Since fabric rips on the straight grain (unless, apparently, you are Blue) I was able to get most of the pieces cut out simply by measuring off the appropriate size of rectangle and ripping. The only more complicated cut was the gores, which I ripped first, then marked the diagonal using a straight edge and a piece of chalk before cutting.

After examining the stitch types at Archaeological Sewing (hat tip to [livejournal.com profile] rectangularcat), I am going to go with a single-fold hemstitch on each piece with an overcast stitch to join the seams. If I have time, I will also add the running stitch on the folded over edges, as in figure 10. The stitching thread will be a white wool.

No pictures, because all you'd be looking at right now would be rectangles of black wool.
cat_cetera: (Default)
What I'm Listening To
- Boccherini's Quintetto In Do Maggiore la Musica Notturna Delle Strade Di Madrid Op. 30, No. 6 (G. 324): Il Rosario - Largo Assai - Allegro - Largo Come Prima - this recording is a Jordi Savall project, but I first heard this piece on the soundtrack to Master and Commander and so for me it's very evocative not only of that movie but also of my time in Victoria.
- KT Tunstall, Black Horse and the Cherry Tree
- my iPod on random, producing Tainted Love followed immediately by Rihanna's S.O.S.

What I'm Playing
- Francois Couperin, Les Folies Francaises, ou les Dominos, a set of theme and variations with each variation named after an aspect of love, such as "La Virginite" and "Les Coucous Benevoles". Am considering attaching the name of a Doctor Who character to each one: "La Coqueterie" - Jack Harkness; "La Jalousie Taciturne" - Ninth Doctor.
- Polyphonia - this week my favorite herd of cats managed a pretty good rendition of the Agincourt Carol, and didn't quite butcher Amor Potest - Ad Amorem, despite its use of hocket.
- Rock Band. Rage Against The Sewing Machine takes the stage again!!!

What I'm Reading/Watching
- Wading my way through the Metropolitan Museum of Art's online catalogue, which has led me to some new portraits from the late fifteenth century, a few "no image available", and many irrelevant yet very interesting other things.
- Oh Stargate SG1, how I love you.
- Far too many facebook updates letting me know every milestone other people reach in Farmville and clones. If anyone knows how to blanket turn off updates from new games that people start playing, PLEASE let me know.

What I'm Making
- New shift is done. Handsewn from start to finish, mostly using linen thread. Liked using the linen thread, but discovered it is not very well suited to backstitch. Attempted to do some basic blackwork around the neck edge based on the pattern seen in this portrait, but since the neckline was not cut on the straight grain I was not able to get a satisfactorily even and symmetrical pattern.
- Some time ago, the House was gifted a large quantity of brocade in an indescribable colour. To gaze on it directly is to invite madness, but if you squint just right, it looks like a sort of blasphemous imitation of the brocade worn by two different women in Ghirlandaio's Tornabuoni chapel. Lacking a sufficient colour name with which to refer to this fabric, we decided to call it "Dead Spaniard", which I knew to be a renaissance name for some colour. Apparently "Dead Spaniard" is actually a pale greyish tan. That is not this colour.
Cut out pieces for "Dead Spaniard" giornea, then sewed together long seams by machine in the interests of time. Currently staystitching edges by hand using running stitch. Had an interesting discussion with [livejournal.com profile] rectangularcat about whether colour could/would have been produced in period using natural dyes, and whether colour should have been produced at all in modern times (answer to all: probably not). Well, if it's too offensively bright, I'll just save it for some morning when everyone's hung over but me.

Armless

Jul. 12th, 2009 10:31 pm
cat_cetera: (Default)
After much procrastination, the trunk hose are finally finished! The last step was putting the lacing holes in at the fly and on the canions. In Janet Arnold, the Grimsthorpe trunk hose (pp 74-77) have two pairs of lacing holes at the front - one on the waistband and one about halfway down the fly opening. The other two pairs fasten with a button fly and with a combination of hooks and eyes and lacing holes. I had previously made a pair of trunk hose that had eyelet holes in the same positioning as the Grimsthorpe ones, and was not completely satisfied with the way they looked when closed, so I did a row of seven lacing holes down each side of the fly and laced them up using spiral lacing with a bar tack at the top and bottom. There is no evidence in Janet Arnold for canions that open at the back (on the Grimsthorpe pair there is a note that the canions may have opened at the side) - this is an adaptation I had to make when a previous pair didn't fit properly, and I used it again because it allows me to tighten the fit of the canions once they are on.

Pictures below )

The doublet will eventually have sleeves that lace on under the shoulder wings, but first I have to do some retrofitting on my shirts. Earlier in my costuming career I visited the Museum of Costume in Bath and made a few detailed sketches of a shirt that was on display there, then came back and made my own shirt based on the embroidery pattern and what I could see of the construction. I have now decided to make a number of changes based on the patterns in the new Janet Arnold and my experiences wearing the shirt.

Details below )
cat_cetera: (Default)
I went to Avacal/Tir Righ War with the intention of finishing the lacing holes on my trunk hose and then wearing them at the same event. Instead, [livejournal.com profile] minyata and I decided to participate in the siege arts & sciences challenge.

The challenge was to make an a&s project using two items from the challenge table, two items from your own camp, and at least one item you found on site. We decided to make a 16th century barett/bonnet, which is common both in German and English costume of the 16th century. From the challenge table we took the wool that was the fabric for the hat, and the wool thread that we used for accents. From our own camp we took some beads from a couple of bracelets I had, and the feathers from Francis' hat. From the site we picked daisies for a daisy chain that went around the brim.

The a&s point for the war went rightly to a person who had dyed some linen from mosses and various other things found on the campsite and then put together a banner displaying the arms of Avacal and Tir Righ, but we had fun anyways!

Pictures and Description )

Trunk Hose

Jul. 4th, 2009 09:28 pm
cat_cetera: (Default)
I have been working on a pair of trunk hose (sometimes aka "pumpkin pants") in the same fabric as the navy doublet I previously finished. The bottoms of the pant legs where they attach to the canions have darts, which hold the bottom of the pants out in the baggy shape. For an even baggier shape, you could stuff them with padding, but since they are heavy enough already I don't do so. The length of trunk hose can vary - some are very short, but I make mine to just above the knee, so the canion goes around my knee.

Pictures and Descriptions )
cat_cetera: (Default)

Mulligatawny Soup all'Eccetera

1 can lowfat cream of chicken soup
1 cup cooked brown rice
2 chicken breasts, cubed
1 large carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped
Spices

1. Fry your spices in some oil in your stock pot. I used curry powder, turmeric, cumin, coriander and cayenne pepper. I do not have an ideal mix of proportions yet.
2. When the spices start to smoke or darken, add the chicken pieces and cook through.
3. While the chicken is cooking, you can microwave the vegetables.
4. Add the vegetables, the can of soup, a can of water and the rice to the stock pot.
5. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. You can simmer as long as you like but it is pretty much ready to go as soon as it is warm through.
6. Enjoy!

4 of 4 Fine Lames enjoyed this dish, but it could have used some onion.

cat_cetera: (Default)
(cross posted in [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries)

The new Janet Arnold has a few details of embroidered night caps from the late 16th century, including a quote from a contemporary observer that the gentlemen of the court have taken to wearing them during the day on the pretext of some imaginary infirmity. I had picked up this pre-embroidered fabric quite a while ago because it looks pseudo-blackworked and I thought it might be useful for something. This seemed like a good project to try with it.

Process and pictures under the cut )
cat_cetera: (Default)
Last month [livejournal.com profile] false_parrot cooked the feast for Montengarde's Beltaine event. The recipes we used came from the following books, each of which has many other equally interesting recipes as well!

Brears, Peter, Food & Cooking in 16th Century Britain: History and Recipes. English Heritage, 1985. ISBN 1850745366.

Brears, Peter, Food & Cooking in 17th Century Britain: History and Recipes. English Heritage, 1985. ISBN 1850745374

Dewitt, Dave, Da Vinci's Kitchen: A Secret History of Italian Cuisine. BenBella Books, Inc., Dallas, 2006.

Hieatt, Constance B., Brenda Hosington and Sharon Butler, Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks, 2nd ed. University of Toronto Press, Toronto, 1996. ISBN 0802076327.

Redon, Odile, Francoise Sabban and Silvano Serventi, The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy. University of Chicago Press, Chicago, 1998. ISBN 0226706842

Zaoualli, Lilia, Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World. University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 2007. ISBN 9780520247833.

I am pretty sure I also have several other books of medieval cookery, which are presumably at the moment scattered among members of [livejournal.com profile] false_parrot and which I would like to get back. The two others I can think of right now are Elinor Fettiplace's Receipt Book and a reprint of Gervase Markham's English Housewife. Further bibliographic details to follow when I get the books back. Happy cooking!!
cat_cetera: (Default)
(cross posted in [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries and [livejournal.com profile] cat_cetera)

Basted lacing strip to bottom of doublet, then sewed lining down by hand using slip stitch. Usually I do almost all of my sewing by hand - I have been doing the navy and green suits mostly by machine because I was more interested in getting them done quickly, but I figured that this last step would go just as quickly by hand.

Worked on cloth buttons. Previous experimentation had shown that the size of square and the size of circle needed depend entirely on the fabric. I found that a square of about 2" and a circle the size of a 250m spool of thread gave me approximately the size I wanted with the navy wool. Ended up using 13 buttons total for the front of the doublet.

Made buttonholes by machine (this is one thing I've never had the patience to do by hand). Usually I like to put my trim between the edge of the fabric and the buttonholes because it leaves a wider strip of uncut fabric and leads to stronger buttonholes (buttonholes should go horizontally, not vertically as they do in most modern sewing), but because of the trim pattern I ended up using, I have almost nothing in between the edge of the fabric and the edges of the buttonholes. This is not a problem when the buttons are done up, since the doublet fits a bit loose, but the buttons require a bit of squishing in order to fit through the buttonholes, so I will have to be a bit careful. Ended up having to cut buttonholes open using scissors since seam ripper is at [livejournal.com profile] minyata's house.

On sailor pants, revised never-quite-satisfactory codflap to form overlap piece for button fly, but despite looking at Janet Arnold while working on fly, still managed to get piece on wrong side. On the Sir Richard Cotton suit, the overlap piece is on the left side and contains the buttonholes. I ended up sewing it to the right side, so decided to sew the buttons to it and have it underlap.

Both pieces are now done - pictures behind the cut.
Pictures below: )
cat_cetera: (Default)
(cross-posted to [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries and [livejournal.com profile] cat_cetera)

Thursday
Endured teasing at tavern for wanting to have new garb to wear in the kitchen at Beltaine.

Saturday
Sewing new garb anyway. Finished applying previously described hand braided trim to pattern pieces of navy blue wool doublet. Having previously worked with a single strand of the cord I used to braid the trim and found it very unravelly, I applied the trim to all pieces without cutting it apart between pieces, then zigzagged very thoroughly across the ends of each piece before cutting the trim apart between them.

Found that I had cut the front pieces of the doublet with too generous an overlap, so sewed the front seams at 1.5" seam allowance. Studied various patterns of applying trim to fronts of doublets in Janet Arnold before deciding on applying trim 1" from the seam on each side of the center front.

Made shoulder wings - square ends and slightly rounded in the middle - and applied trim. Basted shoulder wings to armholes, then basted lacing strips for sleeves to armholes. The doublets from the last quarter of the sixteenth century and later shown in Janet Arnold do not have detachable sleeves (whereas some of the earlier ones do) - but Avacal must be warmer in the summer and better heated in the winter than early modern England or Italy (or else I have a lower tolerance for getting overheated than early modern Brits or Italians) because I find that I get way too warm in doublets with sleeves. I like to preserve the option of attaching sleeves, though, because it can get cold enough at night while camping to put sleeves on. Note though that a 2" wide strip is not quite wide enough when folded over to produce a wide enough lacing strip with a satisfactory amount of seam allowance - a 3" strip would be better.

Next, finished armholes. When sewing by machine, finishing armholes of a lined sleeveless garment requires sewing in two parts, turning the armhole inside out on a different axis each time- this is a complicated procedure I learned from my high school sewing teacher that never fails to elevate my stress level. It's much easier and probably only slightly more time consuming to finish armholes by hand using slip stitch. Clipped seam allowance around curves of armhole so that finished seam would lie flat.

Finally, basted tabs to bottom of doublet. Was going to cut out lacing strip for bottom of doublet, but am running out of steam and will save that step for tomorrow.

Tomorrow
To finish doublet - baste lacing strip to bottom of doublet, then finish bottom of doublet. Make buttons and buttonholes.

Would also like to rework fly of sailor pants to use buttons that have been finished forever, and make faux-blackwork hat.
cat_cetera: (Default)
Saturday
Had v. good time at Winter War. Enjoyed playing some music with [livejournal.com profile] snooness and other Borealis musicians - next time must remember to bring my own recorders. Also enjoyed hanging out with [livejournal.com profile] minyata, [livejournal.com profile] jopickles and others later in the evening, though was a bit disappointed there was no dancing.

Sunday
May have had too good of a time at Winter War :(

This Week
Have received new book: Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450, Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland, eds., Boydell Press, Suffolk, UK, 2001.

The Museum of London puts out lots of cool publications (and is also very cool to visit, if you get the chance). I have a couple of cookbooks that I picked up there, one for 16th century English cookery and another for 17th century English cookery. This book was on a bibliography for an Ithra course taught a few years ago by Maitresse Cecille de Beumund of Seagirt on period stitching techniques, and since I am trying to put together a similar course I decided to order this book.

It describes various textile fragments found in excavations throughout London and includes descriptions of spinning, weaving, dyeing, sewing techniques and tailoring. There is a lot of detailed description, some of it too technical for me, but I still think it is a cool enough book that I have now ordered two others in the same series, one on shoes and pattens and another on dress accessories. I think this book would be even more useful for someone whose areas of specialty are spinning, weaving, and/or mid-period costuming.

Top three new things I learned were:
1. Lacing holes were worked around twice in order to ensure adequate coverage (rather than trying to get stitches very tight together for only one pass around the hole)
2. Instead of being sewn onto the fabric on one side and then passed through buttonholes on the other side to fasten a garment, buttons could have their shanks passed through the buttonholes on the right side and be fastened to a lacing on the wrong side. Although I am not too sure how this worked to fasten the garment - were there lacing holes on the other side?
3. Garments could be edged with tablet woven braid that was worked directly onto the edge of the garment. This is seriously cool and I would love to see someone finish the edges of a garment this way!

Upcoming Goals
I would really like to finish my navy blue doublet this weekend so I have something new to wear for Beltaine. I am also going to try to do an embroidered hat of the type shown in the new Janet Arnold so I don't have to wear the hairnet that Francis has threatened us all with for the kitchen at Beltaine. Assuming I get the doublet done, I will then try to finish the trunk hose so I actually have one of my pieces of camping garb done for May Crown.

Edited to Add:
The linen previously ordered online has also arrived. Right now it is a bit stiff, so I am washing it for the second time. I should have enough for three new smocks plus some trimmings. After a desultory amount of research online I have come to the conclusion that I can wear a falling band instead of a ruff and still be before 1600. Whether I can have sailed so far around the world that I got shipwrecked somewhere in east Asia before 1600 is another question. Sshh.

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