Hipster A&S

Apr. 1st, 2011 08:47 pm
cat_cetera: (SCA!)
On Thursday got asked if I had any pieces of largesse I could take with me to KA&S. I did not, but I did some brainstorming with [livejournal.com profile] falashad about what I could make on short notice. After looking through the stash and my usual selection of references, decided I could probably throw together some coifs.

The women's coifs will be Elizabethan, based on the various extant pieces described in Janet Arnold 4. The men's coifs will be based on two boldly patterned silk taffeta coifs belonging to King Enrique of Castile (c. 1203-17) and his brother Infante Fernando (1189-1211), as described in Dahl, Camilla Luise and Sturtewagen, Isis (2008). "The Cap of St. Birgitta", in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 4: 99-142.

I started from the patterns in The Tudor Tailor and The Medieval Tailor's Assistant (men's) and Janet Arnold 4 (women's) and scaled them up onto my trusty yellow plaid practice fabric.

It's an obscure project; you probably haven't heard of it. )
I liked this project better before it got so mainstream. )
cat_cetera: (Default)
I have here a tunic fitting a Norseman of my acquaintance, to use as a pattern for a tunic that I am going to make in trade for some armor. This tunic has modern-cut set-in sleeves and the body piece flares out in a kind of A-line from shoulder to hem. I haven't done a lot of research on Norse or other early period costuming, but from what I've absorbed I'm pretty sure this isn't right.

To make my (hopefully better) tunic, I took a bunch of measurements of the existing tunic: shoulder to shoulder, shoulder to hem, width of tunic at hem, length of sleeves, width of sleeves. My plan is to have a tunic consisting of a long central body piece with no shoulder seams, a gore consisting of back to back triangles on each side, an underarm gusset, and a sleeve piece. Each of these pieces is shaped like a rectangle or square (the gores are rectangles cut diagonally). I'll worry about the neckline later.

My fabric came from the stash - it is a black wool blend that has been through the washer and dryer. As a non-fiber arts person I have a very imperfect understanding of whether this means it has been fulled, or felted, or whether a treatment like this is appropriate for a Norse garment. Since fabric rips on the straight grain (unless, apparently, you are Blue) I was able to get most of the pieces cut out simply by measuring off the appropriate size of rectangle and ripping. The only more complicated cut was the gores, which I ripped first, then marked the diagonal using a straight edge and a piece of chalk before cutting.

After examining the stitch types at Archaeological Sewing (hat tip to [livejournal.com profile] rectangularcat), I am going to go with a single-fold hemstitch on each piece with an overcast stitch to join the seams. If I have time, I will also add the running stitch on the folded over edges, as in figure 10. The stitching thread will be a white wool.

No pictures, because all you'd be looking at right now would be rectangles of black wool.
cat_cetera: (Default)
I went to Avacal/Tir Righ War with the intention of finishing the lacing holes on my trunk hose and then wearing them at the same event. Instead, [livejournal.com profile] minyata and I decided to participate in the siege arts & sciences challenge.

The challenge was to make an a&s project using two items from the challenge table, two items from your own camp, and at least one item you found on site. We decided to make a 16th century barett/bonnet, which is common both in German and English costume of the 16th century. From the challenge table we took the wool that was the fabric for the hat, and the wool thread that we used for accents. From our own camp we took some beads from a couple of bracelets I had, and the feathers from Francis' hat. From the site we picked daisies for a daisy chain that went around the brim.

The a&s point for the war went rightly to a person who had dyed some linen from mosses and various other things found on the campsite and then put together a banner displaying the arms of Avacal and Tir Righ, but we had fun anyways!

Pictures and Description )
cat_cetera: (Default)
Bought a bunch of fabric last weekend, some of which was even wool. Once washed, the navy blue wool had a very strong smell sort of like a newly sanitized outhouse. Better obviously than a very strong smell sort of like a used outhouse, but still not especially desirable. Wet wool should smell like, well, wet wool. On suggestion from Demetra ap Samarkand (and endorsed post facto by Missy M) soaked it in vinegar before drying. Seems to have had some positive effect.

Read through Patterns of Fashion 4. Had previously intended to make two new shirts for camping that did not have any embellishment, since am not especially enthusiastic about blackwork. This book did not help. Came up with a plan for a fairly simple embellished shirt using blue embroidery and another using inserted lace. However, all this is academic at this point, since still do not have white linen.

Visited Three Star Fabrics and bought silk broadcloth in coral and light blue for lining of camping suits. Also bought gold trim for olive green camping suit and needle lace like stuff for chemise. Also visited Fabricland and bought navy blue and grey cording to make own trim for navy blue camping suit. This camping gear is going to end up involving way more handwork than I meant it to. Oh well.

Spent most of afternoon cutting out pieces for trunk hose for green and navy suits. Of course, green and navy fabric are not the same width as each other, and neither is the same width as the interlining. Also, spilled the pin container - would not be a true sewing project if I had not. Blue wool is a little wider - each leg will have the inseam panel (half the width of the fabric) plus one full width panel, making a ratio of approximately three to one at the waist. Green brocade is not as wide - each leg will have the inseam panel (half the width of the fabric), one full width panel, and one half width panel, for a ratio of probably 3.5 to one.

Made a fair bit of progress on sewing in the evening, all by machine, which took a surprising amount of thread. Have constructed canions so they will lace up the back - this is not shown in any of the three examples in Janet Arnold, but it was an emergency fix I had to do on the blue and gold trunk hose and I ended up liking the fit. Am still debating whether I will have the trunk hose fasten with a button fly or with lacing points and a codpiece - my weight fluctuates a lot so the lacing points are probably a better bet if I want them to have an adjustable fit. Am planning to cartridge pleat the legs to the waistband, as I liked the result better than the pair that I pleated into the waistband.
cat_cetera: (Default)
Am having a good fabric weekend - today bought 25m of linen/cotton blend at $2.50/m, very suitable for interlining. Now just have to buy silk broadcloth lining for each of the two camping suits, plus some trim - Three Star Fabrics, here I come! At this rate, I might even be able to get started cutting out some of the fabric next weekend, though I think I want to revise my doublet pattern again - I am not very satisfied with the collar and neckline in the current pattern, and I had an unusual amount of difficulty with the fit on the blue and gold.

In other news, my copy of Authentic Everyday Dress of the Renaissance has resurfaced - yay!
cat_cetera: (Default)
On a quick web search for Japanese costuming links for the SCA time period, I found the following. From my one foray into Japanese costuming to date, I would like to point out that it is always better to do some research on what type of fabric would be appropriate before shopping for the fabric.

http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm - Description of garments, pictures of extant garments and paintings, information on how to make.

http://www.dementia.org/~djl/sca/japanese/patterns.html - I think this is the website I used when I was making Kenshin's garb. I found the instructions pretty clear.

http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html - I haven't looked at this site, but given that it has a front page it is probably pretty extensive.

http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm - Samurai Eye for the SCA Guy. Mostly pictures of garb people have made.
cat_cetera: (Default)
Earlier today I had some success at the fabric store - I got some navy blue wool and some olive green brocade for some camping garb, and some black wool and some black 100% mixed fibres for a camping coat (gown), since the purple velvet gown is warm enough for camping but not very practical.

In the afternoon I sewed together the mock up Viking under dress I had cut out earlier. The result was ambiguous - when I tried it on I ended up ripping the back panel to halfway down the shoulder, although then it fit fine and didn't bind under the arms. Skye also tried it on (post rip) and it seemed to fit her okay as well. Unfortunately neither of us is the eventual wearer of the garment, so it's hard to tell from this whether it will fit the intended recipient. I think I will redo the mockup with slightly wider front and back panels before arranging the fitting.

This evening will be Polyphonia Test Kitchen time - we are going to try to make some orange rice pudding. More updates later!
cat_cetera: (Default)
Thursday night: Got waistband attached to trunk hose. Tried on trunk hose, with blackworked shirt, existing doublet(s), and stripey socks. Spent several minutes admiring self in mirror.

Friday night: Cut out collar pieces, binding strips for waistband (2 inches wide), and tab pieces (12 tabs at finished width of 3 inches at the top, each). Had forgotten what a pain tabs are. Got started sewing collar pieces to doublet, sleeve seams, and tabs. Tabs are a pain.

Saturday morning: Finished sewing tabs and sleeve seams. Ironed everything. Tabs are a pain. Sewed doublet (with collar) to doublet lining, then basted sleeves in to check fit. Shoulder seam a bit too long, and sleeves a bit wide, even with most voluminous shirt underneath. Packed up sewing to go over to [livejournal.com profile] falashad's place for Doctor Who marathon.

Saturday afternoon: tried on doublet again for benefit of committee - resolved that sleeve width and shoulder seam should both be reduced. Re-sewed sleeve seams, then picked out the old ones. Attached binding strip to waist and fly opening of trunk hose. Sewed bottom of foundation breeches to top of canions, with raw edge inside. Trunk hose now finished except for lacing holes and fly flap. Started sewing trim to tabs. Tabs are a pain. Hope I have enough trim for the whole project.

Found Doctor Who very entertaining - I had never watched any of the classic series although of course I was familiar with the setup. [livejournal.com profile] falashad had a good group of people gathered to watch and we had a good time watching, discussing, and suggesting items for a drinking game, and identifying tropes. [livejournal.com profile] kaerran will be pleased to learn that several episodes feature Ominous Latin Chanting. I also noted several examples of Not So Different, and if I may be allowed to quote the love-to-hateable Dr. Rodney McKay (Stargate: Atlantis), of Captain Jack I wish to say, "Oh my god, he really is Kirk!"

Edited to add:
Favorite Quotes )
cat_cetera: (Default)
After much fiddling around, which I expected I would spend a good part of the evening doing, I figured out a good way to do the darts. One side is now done. Very dull details inside so I can hopefully remember what I did for the next go round.

Details inside... )
Now all I have to do is make one more exactly like it, except in mirror image!
cat_cetera: (Default)
After questing unsuccessfully on Monday for a tabletop ironing board (one disadvantage of living downtown with no car is the distinct inability to conveniently access home supply stores), I went to my parents' house today so I could sponge dinner off them and borrow their car to go to Wal-Mart. They had what I was looking for, and I also got some spiffy new pearl-headed pins in funky pastel colours so I don't have to split my fingers open while pinning things. They did not have the bulk wooden beads that are good to use for button cores, so I guess my button making adventures will have to wait.

Got all of the preliminary steps to the leg pieces done - canions, foundation, outer leg panels and interlining. Am sewing by machine because it's faster, and am not finishing any of my seam edges. I washed the wool so it's sort of felted, and it's not fraying. The linen look is not fraying too badly and no raw edges will be exposed when the whole thing is put together, so I should be okay. Next is that pesky bit with making all the darts, which is probably just as quick to do by hand. Hope I keep my momentum going!
cat_cetera: (Default)
Despite not having AutoCAD ;) I altered all of my pattern pieces and moved on to cutting my fabric out. This is usually my least favourite step but tonight I didn't feel too bad about it (usually it feels like it's taking forever). To my irritation the linen look is about 8 inches narrower than the wool blend, meaning that I had to cut the panel pieces for the trunk hose at different widths for the outside and the interlining. I got everything cut out except the collar, shoulder wings and tabs, which I usually leave for later in the process anyway. I will be lining and interlining with the linen look.

Fun fact: one of the sets of trunk hose in Janet Arnold has a button fly! I barely got enough buttons to fasten the doublet for this go-round (if I can just remember where I put them), so this suit will just have the front fly lace closed, but maybe next time...

Confusing fact: For the same pair of trunk hose, Janet Arnold says in one place that they are pleated in to the canions, and on the next page talks about darts. Not the same thing at all! Has anyone tried this? Which works better? Obviously pleating would be much less work.

Facts you don't care about: After looking at several portraits from this time period, I have decided I can get away without wearing a hat or a falling band, but may have to make the later style cuffs. Also, either all the pairs that had portraits painted didn't have canions (it's true, one of the pairs in Janet Arnold doesn't), or else they are wearing their canions inside their hose. Hope my socks are long enough!

Edited: I have lots of fabric left. Hmm, maybe a cloak and another pair of sailor pants?
cat_cetera: (Default)
Have decided to make a suit consisting of trunk hose and doublet because I want to use this really loud fabric I have. First step is making a practice suit out of fabric I don't care about as much, because the first try never really works out the way you want it to - ergo, suit will be plain black. 100% wool was not available on short notice, so bought a wool/viscose blend that is taking forever to dry in my dryer and generating a really astonishing amount of lint. (Black linen was also not available on short notice, so am using 100% unnatural fibre "linen look"). Finished suit in black will end up looking a lot like this suit, so fashionably worn by Cormac at Montengarde Twelfth Night 2008.

more boring details inside... )


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