Hipster A&S

Apr. 1st, 2011 08:47 pm
cat_cetera: (SCA!)
On Thursday got asked if I had any pieces of largesse I could take with me to KA&S. I did not, but I did some brainstorming with [livejournal.com profile] falashad about what I could make on short notice. After looking through the stash and my usual selection of references, decided I could probably throw together some coifs.

The women's coifs will be Elizabethan, based on the various extant pieces described in Janet Arnold 4. The men's coifs will be based on two boldly patterned silk taffeta coifs belonging to King Enrique of Castile (c. 1203-17) and his brother Infante Fernando (1189-1211), as described in Dahl, Camilla Luise and Sturtewagen, Isis (2008). "The Cap of St. Birgitta", in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 4: 99-142.

I started from the patterns in The Tudor Tailor and The Medieval Tailor's Assistant (men's) and Janet Arnold 4 (women's) and scaled them up onto my trusty yellow plaid practice fabric.

It's an obscure project; you probably haven't heard of it. )
I liked this project better before it got so mainstream. )
cat_cetera: (Default)
I went to Avacal/Tir Righ War with the intention of finishing the lacing holes on my trunk hose and then wearing them at the same event. Instead, [livejournal.com profile] minyata and I decided to participate in the siege arts & sciences challenge.

The challenge was to make an a&s project using two items from the challenge table, two items from your own camp, and at least one item you found on site. We decided to make a 16th century barett/bonnet, which is common both in German and English costume of the 16th century. From the challenge table we took the wool that was the fabric for the hat, and the wool thread that we used for accents. From our own camp we took some beads from a couple of bracelets I had, and the feathers from Francis' hat. From the site we picked daisies for a daisy chain that went around the brim.

The a&s point for the war went rightly to a person who had dyed some linen from mosses and various other things found on the campsite and then put together a banner displaying the arms of Avacal and Tir Righ, but we had fun anyways!

Pictures and Description )

Trunk Hose

Jul. 4th, 2009 09:28 pm
cat_cetera: (Default)
I have been working on a pair of trunk hose (sometimes aka "pumpkin pants") in the same fabric as the navy doublet I previously finished. The bottoms of the pant legs where they attach to the canions have darts, which hold the bottom of the pants out in the baggy shape. For an even baggier shape, you could stuff them with padding, but since they are heavy enough already I don't do so. The length of trunk hose can vary - some are very short, but I make mine to just above the knee, so the canion goes around my knee.

Pictures and Descriptions )
cat_cetera: (Default)
(cross posted in [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries and [livejournal.com profile] cat_cetera)

Basted lacing strip to bottom of doublet, then sewed lining down by hand using slip stitch. Usually I do almost all of my sewing by hand - I have been doing the navy and green suits mostly by machine because I was more interested in getting them done quickly, but I figured that this last step would go just as quickly by hand.

Worked on cloth buttons. Previous experimentation had shown that the size of square and the size of circle needed depend entirely on the fabric. I found that a square of about 2" and a circle the size of a 250m spool of thread gave me approximately the size I wanted with the navy wool. Ended up using 13 buttons total for the front of the doublet.

Made buttonholes by machine (this is one thing I've never had the patience to do by hand). Usually I like to put my trim between the edge of the fabric and the buttonholes because it leaves a wider strip of uncut fabric and leads to stronger buttonholes (buttonholes should go horizontally, not vertically as they do in most modern sewing), but because of the trim pattern I ended up using, I have almost nothing in between the edge of the fabric and the edges of the buttonholes. This is not a problem when the buttons are done up, since the doublet fits a bit loose, but the buttons require a bit of squishing in order to fit through the buttonholes, so I will have to be a bit careful. Ended up having to cut buttonholes open using scissors since seam ripper is at [livejournal.com profile] minyata's house.

On sailor pants, revised never-quite-satisfactory codflap to form overlap piece for button fly, but despite looking at Janet Arnold while working on fly, still managed to get piece on wrong side. On the Sir Richard Cotton suit, the overlap piece is on the left side and contains the buttonholes. I ended up sewing it to the right side, so decided to sew the buttons to it and have it underlap.

Both pieces are now done - pictures behind the cut.
Pictures below: )
cat_cetera: (Default)
(cross-posted to [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries and [livejournal.com profile] cat_cetera)

Thursday
Endured teasing at tavern for wanting to have new garb to wear in the kitchen at Beltaine.

Saturday
Sewing new garb anyway. Finished applying previously described hand braided trim to pattern pieces of navy blue wool doublet. Having previously worked with a single strand of the cord I used to braid the trim and found it very unravelly, I applied the trim to all pieces without cutting it apart between pieces, then zigzagged very thoroughly across the ends of each piece before cutting the trim apart between them.

Found that I had cut the front pieces of the doublet with too generous an overlap, so sewed the front seams at 1.5" seam allowance. Studied various patterns of applying trim to fronts of doublets in Janet Arnold before deciding on applying trim 1" from the seam on each side of the center front.

Made shoulder wings - square ends and slightly rounded in the middle - and applied trim. Basted shoulder wings to armholes, then basted lacing strips for sleeves to armholes. The doublets from the last quarter of the sixteenth century and later shown in Janet Arnold do not have detachable sleeves (whereas some of the earlier ones do) - but Avacal must be warmer in the summer and better heated in the winter than early modern England or Italy (or else I have a lower tolerance for getting overheated than early modern Brits or Italians) because I find that I get way too warm in doublets with sleeves. I like to preserve the option of attaching sleeves, though, because it can get cold enough at night while camping to put sleeves on. Note though that a 2" wide strip is not quite wide enough when folded over to produce a wide enough lacing strip with a satisfactory amount of seam allowance - a 3" strip would be better.

Next, finished armholes. When sewing by machine, finishing armholes of a lined sleeveless garment requires sewing in two parts, turning the armhole inside out on a different axis each time- this is a complicated procedure I learned from my high school sewing teacher that never fails to elevate my stress level. It's much easier and probably only slightly more time consuming to finish armholes by hand using slip stitch. Clipped seam allowance around curves of armhole so that finished seam would lie flat.

Finally, basted tabs to bottom of doublet. Was going to cut out lacing strip for bottom of doublet, but am running out of steam and will save that step for tomorrow.

Tomorrow
To finish doublet - baste lacing strip to bottom of doublet, then finish bottom of doublet. Make buttons and buttonholes.

Would also like to rework fly of sailor pants to use buttons that have been finished forever, and make faux-blackwork hat.

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