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(cross posted in [livejournal.com profile] dressdiaries and [livejournal.com profile] cat_cetera)

Basted lacing strip to bottom of doublet, then sewed lining down by hand using slip stitch. Usually I do almost all of my sewing by hand - I have been doing the navy and green suits mostly by machine because I was more interested in getting them done quickly, but I figured that this last step would go just as quickly by hand.

Worked on cloth buttons. Previous experimentation had shown that the size of square and the size of circle needed depend entirely on the fabric. I found that a square of about 2" and a circle the size of a 250m spool of thread gave me approximately the size I wanted with the navy wool. Ended up using 13 buttons total for the front of the doublet.

Made buttonholes by machine (this is one thing I've never had the patience to do by hand). Usually I like to put my trim between the edge of the fabric and the buttonholes because it leaves a wider strip of uncut fabric and leads to stronger buttonholes (buttonholes should go horizontally, not vertically as they do in most modern sewing), but because of the trim pattern I ended up using, I have almost nothing in between the edge of the fabric and the edges of the buttonholes. This is not a problem when the buttons are done up, since the doublet fits a bit loose, but the buttons require a bit of squishing in order to fit through the buttonholes, so I will have to be a bit careful. Ended up having to cut buttonholes open using scissors since seam ripper is at [livejournal.com profile] minyata's house.

On sailor pants, revised never-quite-satisfactory codflap to form overlap piece for button fly, but despite looking at Janet Arnold while working on fly, still managed to get piece on wrong side. On the Sir Richard Cotton suit, the overlap piece is on the left side and contains the buttonholes. I ended up sewing it to the right side, so decided to sew the buttons to it and have it underlap.

Both pieces are now done - pictures behind the cut.


Detail of thread buttons on sailor pants. This style of button is described in The Tudor Tailor and also online at the Renaissance Tailor.
Thread Buttons on Wooden Core

Sailor pants based on the woodcut of various sixteenth century sailors in Millia Davenport. I have had these for a while and they have gone through a number of methods of fastening. They now fasten with a button fly.
Sailor Pants

Detail of self buttons on navy wool doublet:
Self Buttons

Detail of armhole on navy wool doublet showing as yet unfinished lacing strip for attaching sleeves.
Detail - Armhole

The finished outfit. Blackwork on the chemise by the lovely and talented HL Althea Tamborri
Sailor Pants and Navy Wool Doublet
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May 2011

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