Trunk Hose

Jul. 4th, 2009 09:28 pm
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I have been working on a pair of trunk hose (sometimes aka "pumpkin pants") in the same fabric as the navy doublet I previously finished. The bottoms of the pant legs where they attach to the canions have darts, which hold the bottom of the pants out in the baggy shape. For an even baggier shape, you could stuff them with padding, but since they are heavy enough already I don't do so. The length of trunk hose can vary - some are very short, but I make mine to just above the knee, so the canion goes around my knee.



First I mark out how deep the darts will be with contrasting thread - about 4". Then, since I have not figured out a more scientific way to measure out the number of darts, I start folding the available fabric in half, then in half again until I end up with darts of an appropriate size that overall fit to the top of the canion. Since I make the panels for the legs of my trunk hose based on the width of the fabric I am using, this measurement changes from pair to pair. I mark where the edges and the point of the dart are going to be with pins.
IMG_6442

In the past, I have sewn the canions to the bottoms of the pants using a regular seam, but this gets very bulky because of the volume of fabric in the darts and how close together the darts are. This time I decided to finish the edges of the pantlegs and the canions, then whipstitch the finished edges together. This leaves the fabric inside the darts hanging free rather than stitched down.
IMG_6457

Second view of the darts whip stitched to the canions, showing details of the darts:
IMG_6460

In this case, the location of the pockets did not coincide with a seam in the leg panels, so I made a pocket slit - I marked the fabric for finishing the slit in the middle, then pinned it down where the pocket was going to be. I sewed down each side of the middle, then cut down the middle and finished the cut edges by zigzagging.
IMG_6466

I then flipped the outside edges to the inside of the leg panel and finished them by hand with slip stitch.
IMG_6472

The top of the trunk hose are either cartridge pleated or pleated flat into a waistband. The waistbands of the three pairs of trunk hose shown in Janet Arnold are straight strips going to a point in the centre front. Although I have made straight strip waistbands in the past, I decided with this pair to see whether I would get a better fit by making a slightly curved waistband, such as some modern women's dress pants have. I used a belt I have worn a number of times to get a curve that would fit me. From my previous experiences making trunk hose, I have learned that cartridge pleating makes the legs puff out more than box pleating.
IMG_6499

I finished the bottom edge of the waistband. I had finished the top edge of the leg panels in a previous step, then sewn the two leg panels together through the inseam. I used a heavy duty pearl cotton crochet floss to run two lines of large running stitches (around 1/2") around the top edge of the leg panels, then gathered them in. I marked both the waistband and the top of the legs into eighths and whipstitched them together:
IMG_6501

Outside of the waistband, showing cartridge pleating. After the pleats were whipstitched to the waistband, I removed the gathering stitches.
IMG_6505

The top of the waistband and the fly are finished with a straight strip of the same fabric. I am not sure whether the finishing strip should sit entirely inside the garment when finished, or whether it shows equally on the inside and outside. I sewed it down on the outside by machine, going through the outside leg panels, the pocket bags, and the lining, then folded it over and slipstitched it down on the inside:
IMG_6509

The trunk hose are lined with a pair of pants that are more fitted to the leg - this keeps the outside legs puffy and prevents them from bagging down too much. I had already sewed them to the waistband in the previous step, and next I slipstitched each one to the canion to cover the inside of the darts. The remaining step is to put lacing holes in the fly and waistband for fastening. I intended to do this, in true SCA fashion, at the event I was going to, and then wear them the same day, but as my next post will show, other projects interfered...
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